Pasticceria Boccione

It stands at the start of Via del Portico d'Ottavia in the Ghetto and has no sign: you spot it by the queue and the dark trays in the window. The same family has run it for generations, with recipes from the Roman-Jewish tradition and a shop unchanged in decades.

Its two famous bakes are the ricotta and sour cherry (visciole) tart, with a very dark crust, and pizza ebraica, a hard sweet of almonds, pine nuts, raisins and candied fruit that comes out almost burnt on the outside.