El Rinconcillo

It stands on the corner of Calle Gerona and Alhóndiga, beside the church of Santa Catalina, and dates its opening to 1670. The De Rueda family has run it since the mid-19th century, and it keeps its mahogany counter, beamed ceilings, shelves of bottles and hanging hams.

At the bar your bill is chalked on the wooden counter in front of you. The classics are spinach with chickpeas, salt cod in tomato, croquettes, and cheese with the house wine. There is a dining room next door if you want to sit.