Bodega Santa Cruz (Las Columnas)

Bodega Santa Cruz is on the corner of Calle Rodrigo Caro at the entrance to the Santa Cruz quarter, and everyone calls it «Las Columnas» after the columns on its front. It is a small, loud, always busy bar with neighbourhood prices two minutes from the Cathedral.

There is no table service: you order at the bar, the staff chalk your tab on the wood and people eat standing inside or out on the street, plates resting on the ledge. There are montaditos, stew tapas, cured meats and sherry by the glass.