Luini

Giuseppina Luini, who came from Puglia, opened this bakery behind the Rinascente department store in 1949 and brought the panzerotto to Milan: a bread-dough turnover, filled and fried, from southern Italy. The shop has barely changed and is still family run.

The classic is tomato and mozzarella, fried and piping hot, but there are baked ones too, with ham, spinach or sweet fillings of chocolate or custard. Order at the counter, take it wrapped in paper and eat standing in the street.